
Genoa (Genova) rises above the sea like a great theatre. Its tiers
are elegant palazzi and its pit is a noisy, strong-smelling port,
the most important in Italy. La Superba, as the city was known in
its heyday, rose to prominence between the 11th and 15th centuries,
growing rich on trade with the East, and economic and cultural control
of the Liguria region and the island of Corsica.
Immediately behind the docks, the lower city begins. Here streets
are ancient and narrow with twisting alleys - called carrugi - nowadays
lined with exotic shops. The afternoon passeggiata in Genoa takes place
on the elegant Via Luccoli, a carrugio of slightly wider proportions than
most. Strolling along with the prosperous Genoese, you can decide for
yourself whether Mark Twain was right to consider the Genoese women the
most beautiful in Italy.
When you're tired of churches and palaces, head down to the bustling
waterfront for a plate of trenette with pesto alla genovese - pasta with
a sauce of basil, garlic and cheese.
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